Thursday, May 9, 2013

Solitude so close to home

The vast expanse


Henry W. Coe State Park is California’s second largest (Anza-Borrego Desert State Park being the largest). Despite it’s 89,000 acres, the park receives only 40,000 visitors a year. It’s a small wonder, given the name of this blog, that we love this park so much. Sitting only a short drive from the populous Santa Clara Valley, it’s almost amazing that such a vast expanse of protected land is there.

Saturday, May 4th marked the first day of the season that the 7 mile Kaiser-Aetna Road opened allowing access to the Dowdy Ranch Visitor’s Center area from the Bell Station entrance. Given its relatively remote location, this area of the park receives a small fraction of the visitors. We decided to take this opportunity to spend our weekend hiking the Western areas of the park.



Wildflowers


We arrived at Bell Station a good half hour before the scheduled 8:00 am opening and after seeing a park service vehicle go through the gate, we followed. Locked! A few minutes wait and a silver Toyota pickup pulled up behind us. The volunteer staff member was surprised to see people there at all. After figuring out the combination to the gate, she led the way down the dusty, dirt, washboard road.

Our target, a bit over 11 miles away, was Raven Pond. We started down Kaiser-Aetna and marveled at the multitude of wildflowers blooming, a small portion of the hundreds of species in the park. Turning onto the Tie Down Trail we could see just how few hikers visit the area. The trail, portions of which were formerly ranch road, was well overgrown with grasses and other plants. We had to pay attention to where we were going so as not to lose the trail.

Caution: steep

After about 3.5 miles we returned briefly to Kaiser-Aetna Road and took refuge in the shade from the day’s mounting heat. If I were to choose two words to describe the park I would choose “hot” and “steep”. While trails in other parks are constructed so as not to exceed a 10% grade, switchbacking or going around hills, this is not the case in the Coenator. As former roads, or in cases I’m certain former game trails, the trails here tend to go directly over. Even though traveling from one point to another, you may end up at nearly the same elevation, the constant up and down quickly accumulates for high total gains. The up and down is also calf-burningly steep. Maybe this is why some stay away from the park, but in my opinion this is a big part of the park’s charm.

Guarding the trail

We needed to take the short Woodpecker Trail to County Line Road, but after our short break, we completely missed it. The area was completely overgrown and the signpost (I should say sign because a post was there) was missing. Realizing this we had to backtrack a little bit before spotting the trail bench on the side of a hill and venturing through the grasses towards it. Hint: there’s a large metal trap, presumably for wild pigs, right where the trail starts.

Spot the boar

A loud rustling and grunt caught our attention. A large grey wild boar, unhappy with our proximity, took off down the trail to safety. Though not uncommon, this animal was still magnificent.

Mustang Peak
 While fire roads make for easier travel, they do have their drawbacks. Shade is sparse and the heat unforgiving. We zigzagged between the sides of the road for brief moments of shelter from the direct sunlight. The road climbs towards Mustang Peak and as the elevation increases, the views of the vast expanses of uninhabited land become all the more breathtaking. Chaparral, forest, and rolling hills as far as the eye can see. The climactic view is to be had from the highest point along our trip, Mustang Peak. This is accessible via a use-trail, and some loose sand scrambling, from the East side. Though the map marks a trail on the West side, we never found it. The summit is marked by an iron pole with a rusty horseshoe tied to it.

From Mustang Peak it’s all downhill to Raven Pond, though this was not without challenge. We shortly came upon a gate. Locked! We consulted the map and indeed the road exits the park at this point. We contemplated what to do for a minute and “I yelled at the house ‘What gives you the right to keep me out or to keep Mother Nature in”. If only there was a house or a sign that said “anybody caught trespassing will be shot on sight” I would have felt like Les Emmerson of the Five Man Electrical Band, but alas, there wasn’t even a “NO TRESPASSING” sign. There was a sign on the other side warning of the park boundary.

Road maintenance

Hiking a bit further we ran into a couple of mountain bikers, bikers that arrived at the park shortly after we did. They too decided to hop the gate and told us there were a few more locked ones further down the road; past where we were going. Chatting for a while we continued and arrived at another gate at the park boundary. This one, unlike the other, was not locked. I imagine the previous one was a goof up on somebody’s part, rather than actually meant to keep anyone out, though this area of the park is inaccessible form any other direction.

The final half mile consisted of another obscure trail leading down to Raven Pond. Hint: about 0.1 mile in there’s a small cairn and some purple ribbon tied to sagebrush. Bear left here or you’ll have to push your way through the brush.

Raven pond

The water level in the pond was very low which made walking to its far end much easier. The Northern end is fairly exposed and wouldn’t have made for good camping. The South side on the other hand is surrounded by conifers. We went up a short slope on the East side to the nature reclaimed remnants of another ranch road. The bench was smooth and made for a great tent spot in the shade.

Dead frog
Live frog
Red frog?

After dinner and a rest, I walked over to the pond to take some pictures. The pond was teeming with life. An entire circle was visible. Frogs eating the various species of dragonflies. Dragonflies eating smaller insects. Sparrows eating the frogs. A water snake swam under the surface. Fish were visible. If the pond is this low, this early in the season, how does all this life survive when the pond dries out? The number of dead frogs around the banks is evidence that life here is hard. Dead frogs are easy to photograph though, unlike their living relatives which dive into the water with a loud squeak before you can get remotely close.

Waking up at 5:00am on Sunday, we got an early start, hoping to beat the heat. Back up Ravon Pond Trail and County Line Road until we came to the Dutch’s Trail junction. Heading South, Dutch’s trail follows a ridge, perched between two valleys, for a large portion. This provided for more wildflower viewing opportunities. Mostly exposed, we were very glad it was still early and the sun was hiding behind cloud cover. Yellowjacket Trail led us through an open grassland (watch for ticks), until we met up with the Tie Down Trail again.

Low water flow in North Fork of Pacheco Creek

Before crossing the North Fork of Pacheco Creek we veered East and headed down the North Fork Trail which follows, and on multiple occasions crosses, the creek. Though the water was mainly at a trickle, there were still many deeper pools along the way. The North Fork Trail ends on the South side of the creek in a large grassland and here Mack’s Corral Trail begins. The latter is likely named after the corral which can still be seen here. This must have been prime grazing land.

Battie intrigued with a flower

As we ventured into the woodland, we decided to take another break, and a bit tired at this place, plopped down on the ground. We couldn’t have picked a worst spot as this was the biggest, and first, patch of poison oak we came across. Sharon, allergic to the stuff, did get some oils on her, but luckily nothing too bad.

As we approached the parking lot we saw 3 hikers, the first since yesterday’s mountain bikers. I would say that our continuing mission to find solitude was rather successful, but again I must stress that if solitude is what you’re after, and you’re not in the mood for a longer drive, Henry Coe is the place to goe. Hmm…or maybe I should be selfish and tell you something to keep you away. There are so many rattlesnakes here that you’ll be walking on a carpet of them :)



Thursday, May 2, 2013

Hot, hot, heat


Rock spires through the trees

Our story begins somewhere in the early Paleogne period, about 60 million years ago, as the Farllon plate began subducting under the North American plate. By the beginning of the Neogene, 23 million years ago, a volcano, 15 miles long, 5 miles wide  and 8000 feet high was spewing ash and molten rock just East of present day Los Angeles. The story is familiar, and it is not surprise that the tectonic forces that brought this fiery mountain to life eventually died out and with them went oozing lava.

The story however does not end here. Quite the contrary, the journey only begins. As the Pacific plate slammed into the North American plate, a new fault line formed, the infamous San Andreas. Over the next 23 million years the awesome tectonic forces carried two-thirds of the now dormant volcano on a 195 mile journey Northwest to its present location East of Monterey Bay. The remaining third, the Neenach Formation, can still be seen at its original location. Though this journey will not be over until the Pacific and North American plates stop sliding past each other, or until erosion finally gets the best of the volcano, this is where ours begins.

View from Peaks View

It was 9 am and already the rays of sunlight filtering through the forest canopy betrayed the heat of the day. The shade of the forest did not last long. We followed the Bench Trail for less than a mile before changing course due East and beginning our ascent via the High Peaks Trail. Our first clear view of the day's target came in the aptly named Peaks View area where we parked. Though we had visited Pinnacles National Monument multiple times in the past, I swear there was never as good a view. Maybe the now fallen tree once stood blocking the view. Maybe we always started before the veil of morning fog lifted. Maybe my memory just fails me.

This was however the first time we visited the Pinnacles National Park. The upgraded status of the nation's 59th National Park came in January this year. Even though the park looked the same, including but not limited to all the signage which still read "Pinnacles National Monument", something felt different. We did notice that there were more visitors than usual, and I'm sure many excited to visit the latest addition to the National Park system, but that wasn't it. The place seemed grander.

Surely nothing changed about the quickly rising temperature. One of our first major hikes was at the Pinnacles. Sharon and I carried 2 or so liters of water between the two of us. We nearly ran out after hiking to Chalone Peak and before cresting on the High Peaks Trail on our way to the Chaparral Ranger Station. We both experienced early signs of heat exhaustion and barely made it to the parking lot, rationing the few sips of water we had left just to occasionally wet our tongues  We learned later that the day's temperature was 115 degrees. No wonder we didn't see anyone on our hike. Luckily there was water in the parking lot and after chugging liter after liter, we were able to make it back to the West side of the park.

Soaring

We learned our lesson about carrying plenty of water, and we were ready for the heat today. With few exceptions, the trails in the Pinnacles are highly exposed and shade is hard to come by. As we approached the high-point of the trail, we nestled behind a giant rock spire with a great view. The temperature difference was definitely noticeable and the breeze coming up over the ridge helped us cool down. As we chowed down on lunch, we were somewhat startled by a giant shadow sweeping over the ground. Looking up, we spotted a California condor circling overhead and using the rising hot air to climb higher. Though these birds are making a comeback in the area, this is the first time we saw one. (Hmmm...Pinnacles become a National Park and all of a sudden there are condors. This is more evidence to support our theory that the NPS releases wildlife near trails...) What a sight. (By the way, I'm not really serious about the theory).


Condors are not the park's only treasure. Even in this harsh chaparral environment, the areas along the trails were speckled with countless varieties of wildflowers. We saw over a dozen varieties  merely a fraction of the 100+ species found in the park. If the wide array of colors of wildflower petals isn't enough, the assortment of lichens completes the palette.

Rock ladder

Many visitors come to the Pinnacles to walk through the famous caves. You'll see a number visitors in the Bear Gulch area carrying flashlights (good idea if you do want to visit the caves). Though the caves are very cool, both figuratively and literally, my favorite part of the park is the narrow section of the High Peaks Trail. Here handrails protect falls and stair cases turn to ladders chipped into the rock face.

We descended to Bear Gulch area, skipping the reservoir (it's worth seeing and you will hike past here to get to Chalone Peak, also recommended) and opting for the shade of the trees down below. While resting in the picnic area, we met a couple who returned to the park after 35 years. They too admitted not much had changed, except the water. In their recollection the place was not as dry in the past with more of the streams actually carrying water. Interesting indeed.

We walked right past our parked car and headed towards the South Wilderness Trail, the only trail in the park we had yet to hike. Soon after the junction with the Bench Trail, the South Wilderness trail which begins as a fire road, turns into a narrow path. At this point, Sharon decided the heat, now approaching 96 degrees, was too much and turned around. Again, she was the wiser of the two of us. I, however, was intent on covering the remaining 2.5 miles to the end.

Dry creek crossing

Though the park map claims no elevation gain, there isn't exactly true. Though not nearly as much as on the High Peaks Trail, the heat makes even the little bit seem like more. The trail follows the Chalone Creek (still running at this time) and the scenery switches between creek-side vegetation, rocky river wash, and narrow dirt path along the valley sides. The end of the trail is rather anticlimactic with a brown plaque reading "South Wilderness Trail Ends Here" posted on a fence indicating the park boundary. A use path continues following the trail. I followed this for a tenth or maybe 2 tenths of a mile before sitting down in the shade to rest and pulled all sorts of plant matter and dirt out of my shoes.

End of the road

According to my GPS, the trail was much shorter than the 2.9 miles indicated by the park map. In fact from the point where fire road turned into path, it was only about 2.1 miles. I was unlucky, however, to realize that while resting, I dropped said park map under the tree and had to backtrack a quarter mile to retrieve it. Normally this would have been fine, but the heat was starting to get to me.

Scurrying along I made it back to the parking lot in short order and noticed that Sharon had set up her camp chair in the shade. Approaching I noticed the familiar brown glass shape of a beer bottle. A Fat Tire! What a pleasant surprise. It appears that there are certain benefits to splitting up while hiking.

Even though this trip to the Pinnacles was as hot and as fulfilling as always, it left one bit to be desired. A major objective in re-visiting the park was to obtain a collectible park map with "Pinnacles National Park" written across the cover. You know the one I'm talking about. Yes, the one with the black strip and name of the park written in white letters at top, a picture of some iconic sight in the park below, and filled with bits of information about the site. Well it seems the process of moving from National Monument to National Park status may take some time. On the bright side, this is all the more reason to go back in the future.


Friday, April 26, 2013

Trucks, trains, mines, and canyons

5 trucks in the desert

How does one retell the story of a 9 day trip in the desert? If I was Hunter S. Thompson, I'd probably enlist the help of an attorney, a multitude of controlled substances, and a bottle or two of whiskey, creatively crafting my words to tell the tale. I'll have to settle for Sharon and a cold Lagunitas IPA.

I must warn you. A blog is not the perfect medium for such a tale, so if you're looking for a quick read, you might as well close your browser window. But, if on the other hand, you're interested in immersing yourself in the awe inspiring world of the desert, then by all means, continue scrolling.

Where to begin? Oh yes, right at the beginning. Even though last minute packing took a bit longer than we had hoped for, I was restless in bed by 3:30 am, a full hour before the alarm clock was set to jar us out of bed. I couldn't wait to get in the Jeep and head into the Mojave. Forgetting about coding, performance testing, and debugging. Forgetting about meetings and TPS reports. Just 10 people, 5 trucks, their camping gear, and the desert as their oyster; or perhaps a scorpion would be more fitting.

Ellie

We pulled into the agreed upon parking lot at Casa de Fruta, just off of CA-152 early. Right away, we spotted another vehicle; a tan TJ Cruiser loaded to the brim with firewood and camping gear strapped to the roof rack. "They must be with us" we thought. Though we met all the participants at a gathering a couple weeks earlier, we did not know what everyone was driving, but our guess turned out to be right. The TJ belonged to Chris with Cathy riding shotgun.

Where's the driver go?

“KC6QIG, this is KK6CZO, do you read?” “I hear you and now I see you,” the response came in over the speaker. Dave and Jenny arrived in their Xterra, followed shortly by Jim, Ann, and Roger in the Ford Expedition, known endearingly as the Moose. Last but not least, the mean green machine, Frank's Chevy truck completed the convoy. We worked fast ensuring that everyone had radios in their vehicles and swapping passenger; Roger would be riding with Frank.

Sharon and I don't often go over Pacheco Pass while the sun is still out, but regardless, the sight of San Louis Reservoir is always synonymous with the start of an adventure. Traffic on this fine Saturday morning cooperated and after a few stops for gas, lunch, steak at Harris Ranch for the meat eaters, and distribution of the vegan cocounut cupcakes from Chef Chloe's recipe (these really seemed to go over well, as they should have given they were DELICIOUS) which we brought, we arrived at the Gateway to the Mojave; the town of Baker. After fueling up and filling our jerry cans, we continued on pavement for a few more miles before finally turning off onto a dirt road in search of camp.

Jake's Cabin

Driving with our eyes peeled for any suitable spot, a structure in the distance caught our eyes and the exploratory instincts kicked in. We turned our vehicles onto a road headed toward the structure and as we approached, a cabin began to materialize. Enough space out front for the 5 trucks and our clocks indicating time for happy-hour influenced our decision to call this home for the night.

The cabin was in excellent shape. An outhouse, complete with toilet paper and flower pots, sat just a hundred feet away. An inviting front porch housed a couple of chairs, ash-trays, makeshift tables, and ammo rounds, both spent and live. The targets lay just across the wash. Inside we found supplies such as canned food, bottled water, cooking pots and stoves, jackets, hats, and even 3 bunks. The back porch was complete with more chairs and a hammock stretched from the support beams. A weary traveler could arrive here with nothing and subsist in desert luxury for a few days.

From the journal and photographs inside we were able to gather some history of the place. The one room shack was known as Jake's Cabin, though it did not belong to Jake. Jake found the place with his two dogs 12 years prior and spent his spare time repairing it. Using the cabin as his personal retreat he collected the scattered roof shingles and nailing them back. He built the outhouse and outfitted the place with supplies. A sign, written in sharpie on the front door read, "Use but don't abuse...duh". Quite the find indeed.

Blister beetles feeding on brittlebush

In the morning, anxious to get our boots sandy, we started exploring. First, hiking up the wash, we discovered and old ore chute. Sharon, having gone ahead with some of the gang, found a geocache in the decrepit wooden structure. Without looking! "A lifelong dream," she exclaimed. She hid it and made me search as well. I’ll give it a one on difficulty. From there some of us started ascending switchback up the mountainside towards a tailings pile. Though the mines here were not very impressive, the switchbacks lead to somewhat of a plateau. We discovered desert blister beetles, mating, and feeding on what I believe was brittlebush. Their black bodies contrasted with their bright red-orange heads and legs and the yellow of the flowers are still imprinted in my head.

Just needs a new motor and she'll be fine

Back at camp, we loaded up the trucks and headed towards the Owlshead Mountains. We discovered the remnants of an abandoned, old car and after piling in for a group photo we headed to Owl Hole Springs. Here, lay the remnants of a large mining operation. The spring itself emptied into a watering hole providing sustenance for lush vegetation. Given the corral fencing around it, the hole must have served ranchers in the past. Thoroughly exploring the area we headed back towards the abandoned car to set up camp for the night.

Now entering Death Valley National Park
Dave's having a good time

Though we were tucked into a small canyon, or maybe because of it, the night was particularly windy. Mixing margaritas, wine, and beer, I ended up a bit drunk, likely to the annoyance of everyone else. The worst part...in the morning I didn't remember any of Cathy's Bronco stories. Apparently Bronco owners don't know how to take care of their trucks resulting in many a desert mishap. Wheels flying off and needing to be chased down? That can’t be good.

To the Crystal Hills (center)

The goal for the day (would that be Monday now? it's amazing how the calendar loses its meaning in the desert) was the abandoned Epsom Salt Works in the Crystal Hills. Because of the relentless wind there was some doubt whether we would proceed with the hike, we decided to go for it.

Jim in the Crystal Hills

3.5 miles out and cutting through the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Center (yes we did disregard the "no trespassing" signs). The beauty of the Crystal Hills is hard to illustrate with words. The remnants of an ancient lake bed, the hills themselves take on many shades of pink, red, yellow, and brown. The name comes from the crystal deposits in the hillside which shimmer in the sunlight.

Who thought a monorail in the desert was a good idea?
A Panamint Rattler we'll call Rob

We explored many of the structures in the area, the highlight of which were the deteriorating trustless form an old monorail. That's right, a monorail. In order to excite investors, 28 miles of monorail were built to lug ore from the mine. The desert conditions not being favorable to the system along with the problem of finding an engine powerful enough to pull the carts yet light enough to ride the single rail made this project a failure. The mine, however, seemingly saw some degree of success. What investor riding a monorail could refuse? Another highlight was the baby rattlesnake, likely a Panamint Rattler, coiled in the middle of the "trail". Like the hills, the reptile's coloration was intriguing. The light tan body with its orange and brown markings lay sublimely still as we passed by.

Making a b-line back for the cars, we trespassed deeper onto the military property, but saved some time. Part of the group, leaving a bit earlier, managed to reach the car without getting wet. A drizzle, turning into a more intense rain briefly soaked the rest of us. Luckily we were in the desert and it drying off took no time at all in the arid environment.

Passing weather

We now drove to the end of Owlshead Road which terminated at a decommissioned radio tower. Taking in the far flung views, we headed back and found camp tucked into a relatively sheltered area in a canyon. The wind howled all night and dust devils were not infrequent. The wind already broke the poles on Roger’s tent the previous night, and now it nearly carried away Jim and Ann’s. I can only imagine what the night outside our nice MSR Fury would have been like.

Chris and Cathy included us in their meal, even providing Field Roast sausages. Having expected to cook for ourselves most of the trip our excess food was quickly building. The previous night Jim, Ann, and Roger fed us a splendid pasta sauce made from tomatoes grown at Charles Street Community Garden right in Sunnyvale. Tonight's sausages went down just as well and as an Eastern European, I made a point to scarf down as much sauerkraut as possible.  If any of you guys are reading this, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE FOOD!!! White Russians (ours involved home-made coffee liquor and coconut milk) made for a tasty buzz.

Frank's truck is surrounded

Tonight was also the night that the desert flamingos infiltrated our camp. One by one they appeared. On the hillside. Next to a car. One even made a home out of our tent vestibule. Soon enough a dozen of these pink plastic creatures were scattered around camp resting on their metal wire legs. Where did they come from? As if Frank didn't have enough "gear" in his truck, he carried a box of 20 of them in the back. Excessive? Maybe. Delightful? Certainly! These were not ordinary flamingos. They have seen Burning Man. Dave, Chris, and I managed to attach a bird each to our trucks. Though Jim, Ann, Frank, and Roger were not early adapters of the flamingo truck ornaments, they jumped on the bandwagon the following night.

The endemic Death Valley Pupfish

On our way back towards pavement and fuel we stopped at Saratoga Spring where a surprisingly large pool of water served as habitat for the Death Valley Pupfish. These tiny creatures are endemic to the area and so were truly amazing to see. I would think very few visitors to the park see them first hand. After some light mine exploration we returned to the trucks for a short drive and a stop for lunch. We ate with the sweeping sands of the Ibex Dunes in view.

In exchange for some of the Bronco stories, which I no longer recalled, I had promised to let Cathy drive the Jeep. Sharon jumped in the FJ and Cathy took the wheel. This may have been a bit of a mistake as now she knows how smooth the ride in an off-road rig can be compared to a bumpy Jeep. Cathy did enjoy the experience very much, even though she did get Ellie stuck in the sand. This was mainly my fault since when I asked her to switch the transfer case into 4WD, I didn't clarify she should do so while the vehicle is moving. For some reason, the t-case is a bit finicky if you try to go from 2H to 4H when stopped. With the wheels a quarter buried in sand as soon as we stopped, getting it moving again was an ordeal. I returned to my post in the driver’s seat and after depressing the clutch a few times and rocking back and forth I got Ellie into 4L. She got out no problem. Was there ever any doubt!

Make sure to keep proper spacing

We rejoined the pavement of CA-127 and headed to Shoshone for gas and the use of flush toilets. Frank and Dave had found some roads leading into the Dublin Hills on BLM land where we were to camp for the night. However, the roads turned out to be in much worse shape than we expected. The best kept of the roads came to an end at a large gate with gigantic "NO TRESPASSING" and "YOU ARE UNDER SURVAILANCE" signs. The private property here was home to a man and his four dogs. Though he was not very talkative, he allowed us to turn around on his property.

One by one we turned off exploring side roads which either lead to nowhere or were too severely washed out to be passable, at least to some of our vehicles. Frank, Roger, and Chris tried some "road construction" only to find the road too badly deteriorated further on. Eventually, Dave found a route through a wash leading to a "suitable" camping spot. I parked the Jeep perpendicular to the canyon wall to serve as a windbreak for our cooking and though this did not help much, every bit counted. Tonight was our night to serve the vegan lentil sloppy Joes which everyone seemed to enjoy. Our other treats were a hit too. Homemade brown rice treats and Milano cookies hit the spot.

Death Valley Railroad leading to Ryan

Passing through Death Valley Junction we headed toward the mining town of Ryan and pulled off the road to start the day's hike. We climbed up a "road" towards the Grand View Mine and the old Death Valley Railroad. Hiking next to the road was almost easier for as our theory goes some anti-road zealot brought in tons of rock and boulders and tore up the former road to the point that it would never be useable again. I’m not sure I understand bringing in foreign material to prevent a handful of vehicles from passing by.

"Which way did it go?"

The Grand View was nothing more than a giant sinkhole. Any shafts that may have been there in the past, and we did see evidence, were now caved in. The "baby" gauge rail was once used to carry ore between Ryan and the Grand View, eventually extending to the Lizzy V. Oakley and Widow mines. After mining halted the rail was used to carry park visitors. Much of the rail was in "decent" shape though parts were badly damaged. We even found a railroad switch which was still functional. From the imprints in the rails, they were forged in Illinois in 1915, the year it was built. Nearly a century old! We followed the railroad past the Lizzy V. Oakley Mine. Though from a distance this mine looked very interesting with possible un-gated shafts, lack of time and the condition of the railroad grade leading to it did not allow for exploration on this trip.

Don't forget the 5 deadly mine hazards

Sagebrush Checkerspot on Mojave-aster

The hike terminated at the Widow Mine where we found giant pit after giant pit. The railroad definitely ended here; and how! We rushed back down the grade hoping to make it back in time to shower at Furnace Creek. We were under the impression that the showers at the resort would only be open till 5 or so, though upon arrival we learned that they were available until 11 pm (mentally noted). Though the idea of a pool and golf course in the middle of the desert is a bit extravagant, the ability to shower after stinking for 5 days is quite nice and we, especially Sharon and Jenny, felt great afterwards. We indulged in a cherry Icee at the general store and purchased ice to replenish our dwindling stock.

Though I was not able to contact KG6POU, a.k.a. Frank, via my Ham radio (I really need to work on a better mounting location), Dave was able to pick up a decent signal from the parking lot. Frank, Roger, Chris, and Cathy were at Hole in the Wall setting up camp, and we made our way to join them.



Hole in the Wall is definitely something else. After driving through a road in a wash, surrounded by blooming wildflowers, the geographic marvel appears as a gateway to a fantasy land, all that much more impressive dressed in the colors of the setting sun. Sharon was unimpressed, claiming it was more of a “gap” than a “hole”.

The vacuuming mine cat ready to strike

The themed dinner for the night was Italian fine dining. Complete with LED Christmas lights, tablecloths, and breadsticks as appetizers, the main course was pizza on hotdog buns. I used some Daiya to make mine, but Sharon skipped her portion. Frank told the tale of a desert mine cat and later in the night he and Dave disappeared. We soon heard giggling on top of a hill, followed by the sound of a vacuum cleaner. The latter was actually the noise from a blower inflating a giant cat with glowing eyes and mouth. We were all amused and from here on referred to the Halloween decoration as the vacuuming mine cat.

Nothing really planned for the day. After another Icee and dumping our trash at Furnace Creek, we decided to head to Nevada. Our first stop was the ghost town of Rhyolite. The crumbling structures gave me a hard time imagining the 10,000 individuals that once inhabited the area. The railway station was the most intact and an old railroad car sat out front. Naturally, we peeked inside, only later to discover the "Danger: Do not enter" sign posted on another door. We have yet to figure out what this dhang-errr word means?!?!

Desert bottle art

Walking around town we headed towards the Bottle House, which as the name suggest, was built out of old glass bottles. Though it's hard to believe that any miner would have the time to create an art installation, the town's multiple saloons surely provided ample building supplies. A miniature glass and mortar town decorated the yard.

Next, we headed down Titus Canyon Road to Leadfiled. This ghost town played its role in history as a scam. The Western Lead Mine Company’s false advertising, including images of steamboats crossing the typically dry Amargosa River 20 miles away, interested investors. Though the town grew to 300 residents and a post office opened, it was closed within a year.

True rock climber
Not the best shot but way too cute

As we headed into Titus Canyon the walls became steeper and the canyon became narrower. Out of the corner of her eye Jenny spotted bighorn sheep scaling the canyon walls; a feat which later earned her the nickname Eagle Eye. Only 500 of these magnificent creatures reside in the park and this group had 4 members; 2 adult females and 2 babies. We watched them for a long period of time until somewhat of a traffic jam formed behind our convoy. Moving on, not a half a mile further, Jenny spotted another larger group of at least 6 to 10 sheep. These were lower down and more sheepish. They ran before I had the chance to grab my camera and take pictures. The bighorn sheep were really one of the two major highlights of the trip for me; the second came later that night. Along with black bears, grizzlies, wolves, and mountain lions they are my North American Big 5.

Titus Canyon
Hole in the Wall


We headed back to Hole in the Wall for another night. Too bad we packed up camp, but we did not know we would end up here again. As darkness fell and we were all winding down I went around the front of the car grabbing something out of the driver's side. RATTLE, RATTLE, RATTLE! Not 6 feet from me, I spotted the source. The snake started moving towards as I backed up getting everyone’s attention. Something had to be done. A snake in camp 10 feet from our tent was not a compromise we were willing to make.

I grabbed my boots and the shovel off the roof rack, and Dave went to grab his. We decided we would scoop the snake into a plastic bin and carry it out of camp. This proved to be a bit trickier in practice than in theory. Snakes don't like to stay on shovels and this one coiled under a rock. Moving the rock it retreated under another one. Finally we moved that rock too and Dave forced the snake with his shovel onto mine while I swept it into the bin. I knocked the bin right side up while Dave put the cover on. High five! The snake never struck and observing its behavior I think my irrational fear was much alleviated. I now see that envenomation is their last resort though I’m still surprised the snake initially moved towards me. We carried the reptile away while Cathy noted that there surely are many more snakes much closer than we were placing this one. Oh well, the relocation gave us peace of mind. As I tipped the bin away from us it recoiled in our direction. Pushing it away again the snake now slid out and coiled under a bush rattling again as if to wish a good night and warn us never to bother it again.

After the ordeal, Cathy continued the reading of “Holes”. Though it was a children’s or young adult novel, the story of a boy sent to a prison camp and forced to dig holes in the desert for a crime he did not commit was very amusing. It inspired us to assign each-other desert nicknames. After the rattlesnake incident I became known as Rattlesnake Bait or Mr. Bait for short. Sharon, with her uncanny ability to seek out the shade was Shady. Dave, always with his camera, was One Eye, and Jenny, for her supernatural ability to spot wildlife was Eagle Eye. Chris chose the name 2-gun. Big Jim flowed naturally while Ann became Margarita and Cathy took the name Lucky. Roger went by Bacon, a reference to his pig farming days and love of the food, or Scout for his exploratory nature. Finally, Frank became Sparky, given the sheer number of electronic devices in the Chevy.

As our trip was nearing an end, we had one last stop in Death Valley National Park. After breakfast we headed towards the Western border, through Panamint Valley, and over to Darwin Falls. Sharon and I had planned on hiking to the falls on our last trip here, but due to a dead car battery (I now have 2) we were unable to do so.

Zebra-tailed lizard

We parked our trucks at the trailhead, Dave and I taking advantage of the “4x4 parking area,” and headed up Darwin Wash. The scenery quickly changed from the expected arid desert to a trickling stream of water with cottonwoods filling the canyon. As we approached the vegetation, the terrain became rockier, while the vegetation became lusher. Moths the size of hummingbirds whirled overhead and we spotted some zebra-tailed lizards. These seemed to go airborne as the scampered over the rocky surface.

Lower Darwin Falls
The lower fall took the shape of an upside-down “Y” dropping into a luxurious pool, begging for a dip. We resisted the urge as cautioned by signs at the trailhead. With the amount of visitors to this area, swimming would greatly disturb the ecosystem. While some decided to venture no further, a contingent of about half of us continued to scramble up the canyon side to visit the upper fall. I bouldered right above the fall while others took an easier path and soon enough we caught hold of the magnificent Upper Darwin Falls. The 80 foot tall drop of water was breathtaking. Our only concern: photographing the stream below without dropping cameras or ourselves. A fall which would surely not end well. Though the path seemed to continue upwards and a trail presented itself on the other side, we had the view that we came for. We headed back to the trucks.

Mysterious carving

As we exited the canyon the desert heat struck us. Such a difference. We pondered how some fortunate miner must at some point have wandered into the canyon and found this cool, watery haven, drinking to content and perhaps cooling off in the pool below the falls. I also noticed an engraving in one of the canyon walls. Native Americans? Miners? Perhaps nature? Given the symmetrical nature of the 3 sets of 3 lines the latter was rather unlikely.

We continued towards the “town” of Darwin. Spotting a mine in the hillside above, Frank decided to explore a loop road leading up to it. The sandy lower segment of the road gave his Chevy a challenge and stopped the Moose dead in its tracks. At a point, Frank and Roger were forced to stop and attempted some road construction, a feat they soon abandoned, and eventually opted to back down the road.

Stuck

Dave and I decided to try the other leg of the loop. Weary of the endeavor Jenny and Sharon decided to stay back, but Cathy, hungry for more mine exploration, jumped into Dave’s truck. Together we made it up to the mine. This leg was much easier than the one Frank attempted. The shaft was maybe 80 feet deep with a much shorter side shaft about half way in. It was in this side shaft that I spotted two bats innocently sleeping, upside down of course, on the ceiling.

With everyone back in their vehicles we progressed towards Darwin. As the day was now winding down, we weren’t able to do much more than note that we should come back to this area one day to explore the many mine ruins and roads in the area. Driving through Darwin, we were surprised at the number of residents still residing here among the dozens of abandoned lodgings. The washboard roads here were so bumpy and we coined a new term to describe them. These were extremely “clean” roads. The more prone to rattling the bolts loose on a rig, the “cleaner” the washboard is.

As the sun hung low in the sky we pulled into Ridgecrest where we had bookings at American’s Best Value Inn. The motel was in excellent shape, likely due to the fact that it was new. So new that Google satellite images show it as a dirt lot. We took some time to condense our glass containers (there was still plenty of booze) into Frank’s truck and shower. Dave and I headed to the nearby Chevron to fill up on gas, a process which took longer than I would have hoped for. First the pump I pulled up to was malfunctioning, and the second was probably the slowest I had ever seen. We drove back to the motel and headed off to La Fiesta to meet everyone for dinner. As we approached, Jenny was waiting outside with an urgent look about her. The restaurant closed in 10 minutes so we barely had time to order. The food was decent, but not as amazing as one local woman made it out to be. The veggies in our burrito clearly came from a freezer bag and everything was a bit bland, though I highly recommend their pickled jalapenos!

On the way back, Sharon and I stopped at the Rite-Aid for some energy drinks for the morning and then stumbled upon a local radio station building, sharing the broadcast on outside speakers. We sat for a while and listened to the news. Something about North Korea that China didn’t approve; must have been really bad. The Republican Party reaffirmed its stance against same-sex marriage; what a surprise. The most disturbing news was that of law enforcement officials being gunned down around the country.

Which way to Little Petroglyph Canyon?

Back at the motel, I joined some of the others at Jim and Ann’s room for some margaritas and a fun conversation then headed off to bed. We had an early morning ahead of us. We rose at 4:30 and the only coffee place we could find was Starbucks. We settled, but luckily the sugary beverages covered up the taste of their roast. Everyone met in the parking lot at 6:00 am, probably aided in waking by me accidentally setting off Ellie’s car alarm an hour earlier. We drove to the parking lot of the town’s movie theater to meet our docents for our last adventure. Individuals from Friends of Last Chance Canyon were meeting us to escort us through the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Center on a tour of the Native American petroglyphs.

As they arrived Sharon and I couldn’t help to notice the “Obama is what happens when welfare recipients and illegals get the right to vote,” “we speak English and wear deodorant here,” bumper stickers as well as a Confederate flag with the word “redneck” written across it. Given that both my parents and Sharon’s mother were immigrants who struggled to learn the language (some better than others) and eventually gained their right to vote, we were quite offended. Had it been just the two of us we would likely have just driven away. I highly recommend that you do take the tour, but if you do so arrange it through the Maturango Museum (read on for more reasons). I think all of us were also a bit upset that while we arranged for a private tour, the docents brought other guests with them.

The famous shamans of Renegade Canyon

As it was, we formed in line with the other trucks and drove to the base entrance across the street. Here we subjected our vehicles to military police inspection. This is why we had to remove glass containers the previous night. The inspection went off without a hitch and after an hour of driving through the base we hiked down into Little Petroglyph Canyon (a.k.a. Renegade Canyon if we can trust what the lead docent told us). We soon learned not to ask any questions as the docents seemed to make up answers on the fly. They were reluctant to tell us the age of the carvings or of the rocks (fundamentalists?), the latter of which geologist Dave clarified to be 15 to 30 million years old. They made outrageous claims about current geological activity in the area and authoritatively explained the meanings of the petroglyphs. That was on top of the 15 minutes of BLM bashing while USGS geologist Dave was sitting nearby and the cracks about software developers (a good portion of us). I guess they did admit that Frank, the Linux developer, "can't be all that bad, he's wearing a Tilley hat." The only one of the docents we liked was Gary, who shared the knowledge he had, and when posed with questions he did not know the answers to, told us so and recommended visiting the museum and purchasing some reading materials.

The artwork was amazing. Bighorn sheep, atlatls, shamans, and various geographic shapes. We even found numbers, dates, initials, “E=mc2”, and a car. The latter likely made by cattle ranchers or more recent visitors to the canyon. Though these were a form of vandalism we appreciated that at least it wasn’t crude phallus illustrations.

"Oh look! Rocks!"

The short hike, or should I call it a saunter, through the canyon took hours because we stopped every few feet to gaze at yet more petroglyphs (and in one case a pictograph) taking hundreds of pictures. The more one looked at any wall, the more carvings appeared. We were amazed at all we saw and I really can’t wait to read up on the subject.

Leaving the base, we regrouped back at the parking lot. I firmly shook Gary’s hand and thanked him for the trip, glad the other docents didn’t come back with us. To escape the hot weather we headed down CA0-178 towards the Sequoia National Forest. We first explored some dirt roads, but these were bordered exclusively by private property. Stopping near one gate to decide which way to proceed we noticed a barefoot, bearded man running towards our convoy. The friendly local offered to allow us to camp on his 10 acres of property. We thanked him but decided to head higher up into the Sierra Nevada along Chimney Peak Road. Exploring a few possible spots along the way we decided to “luxury” camp at an official USFS campsite.

Back in my beloved Sierra Nevada

Luxury here meant an outhouse and picnic tables, both of which we fully utilized. The campground was completely empty, as were the two others nearby. I wondered why so much space, but I guess back in the day when the scenic byway leading through this area was actually paved, more visitors likely stayed here.

Dinner consisted of leftover appetizers but filled our bellies and we were happy to get rid of some improperly stored, week old food. Cathy continued her reading of “Holes” and we did our best to drink what remained of our alcohol. We all had a jolly old time knowing that our vacation would be over very soon.

R.I.P. Faustie :,(

The drive home was uneventful for the most part. It wasn’t until we were heading up Pacheco Pass that tragedy struck. The gusty winds finally had their way with Faustie, our flamingo hood ornament. Faustie took flight, the plastic tearing at the base. I distinctly remember the sound of the tear, followed by a clink against Ellie’s roof rack, and then an outburst of laughter. It took a while to calm down and we slowed down a bit so that the others in the convoy could inspect the two dangling wire legs with what remained of the pink body attached with gaffers tape. Only a couple miles further the winds were calmer and he likely would have made it home. Instead one day a roadside cleanup crew will wonder what a pink plastic flamingo is doing there. Then again, I’m sure they find much stranger items.

Since moving to California, Sharon and I had probably spent about 2 months in and around Death Valley. Though this may seem like a long period of time to the casual visitor, I feel we have seen only a tiny fraction of what the park has to offer. This is not to even mention the rest of the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts. I can’t wait for future expeditions and especially the 18th annual desert trip. Dave and Frank do one hell of a job planning these things and the company is always unbeatable.

* Photo Album - main trip album
* Photo Album - more petroglyphs
* Epsom Salt Works map at everytrail.com
* Death Valley Railroad map at everytrail.com
* Darwin Falls map at everytrail.com
* Little Petroglyph Canyon map at everytrail.com